# Ryogoku: sumo, chanko and Edo history by the Sumida

Most things to do in Ryogoku come back to sumo: the Kokugikan, the national sumo hall, holds three grand tournaments a year, and the streets around it are full of chanko restaurants and wrestlers' stables. The same few blocks on the east bank of the Sumida River also hold the Edo-Tokyo Museum, the Sumida Hokusai Museum and a small daimyo garden, so it is a good day out even without a tournament ticket. The list below is updated daily with tournaments, exhibitions and other events in and around Ryogoku.

## What Ryogoku is like

Ryogoku sits in Sumida ward, just across the river from Asakusabashi and a short ride from Akihabara. The name comes from [Ryogoku Bridge](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD%E6%A9%8B%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD1%E4%B8%81%E7%9B%AE), which people called that because it joined two old provinces, Musashi and Shimosa, and which took the name officially in 1693. In the Edo period sumo bouts were held at [Eko-in](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E5%9B%9E%E5%90%91%E9%99%A2%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD2-8-10), a temple a few minutes south of the station, and that is how the area became the home of the sport. Today it is a calm mix of offices, flats and low-rise shops, and it changes character completely during a tournament, when coloured banners with wrestlers' names line the street to the hall and wrestlers in yukata walk past the station.

The old station building by the West Exit of JR Ryogoku Station now holds [Edo NOREN](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD%20%E6%B1%9F%E6%88%B8NOREN%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-3-20), a food hall built like an Edo townhouse around a full-size sumo ring. It has a chanko restaurant, soba, sushi and monja, plus a tourist information desk for the area, and it is open into the evening, which makes it a useful first stop.

- → [Sumo in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/sumo.md)
- → [Events in Sumida](https://eventstokyo.com/en/sumida.md)

## Sumo at the Kokugikan and the stables

[Ryogoku Kokugikan](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD%E5%9B%BD%E6%8A%80%E9%A4%A8%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-3-28), with its green roof just north of the JR station, hosts the January, May and September grand tournaments, each 15 days long. Tickets are sold through the [official Ticket Oosumo site](https://sumo.pia.jp/en/) about five weeks ahead, and in recent years Tokyo tournaments have sold out, so do not count on buying at the door. Between tournaments the hall is used for concerts and other events, which appear in the list below. The small Sumo Museum inside is free; outside tournaments it opens on weekdays, and during a tournament you need that day's ticket.

Many of the several dozen stables (heya) are within walking distance, around Ryogoku, Kiyosumi and Morishita. Morning practice starts early and usually ends by late morning, but it is a workplace, not a show. Each stable sets its own rules, and they change often: some no longer admit the public, some accept small groups booked through tour operators, and turning up unannounced rarely works. If you do get in, sit where you are told, keep silent and take photos only if allowed.

- On tournament mornings you may pass wrestlers near the station. A small bow is fine; following them for selfies is not.
- Book practice tours only through operators that name the stable and explain the rules before you pay.
- If you have no ticket, NHK shows the top divisions live every afternoon of a tournament.

- → [Sumo in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/sumo.md)
- → [How to buy event tickets in Japan](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/tickets.md)
- → [Watching sports in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/sports.md)
- → [Sports in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/sports.md)

## The museums and the old garden

The [Edo-Tokyo Museum](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E6%B1%9F%E6%88%B8%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A4%A8%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-4-1), the huge raised building next to the Kokugikan, reopened on March 31, 2026, after a long renovation. Its permanent exhibition fills two floors, one zone for Edo and one for modern Tokyo, and starts with a full-size reconstruction of part of the old wooden Nihonbashi bridge, surrounded by detailed scale models of streets and houses. Allow at least two hours. It is closed on Mondays (the next weekday when Monday is a holiday) and stays open later on Saturdays.

The [Sumida Hokusai Museum](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E3%81%99%E3%81%BF%E3%81%A0%E5%8C%97%E6%96%8E%E7%BE%8E%E8%A1%93%E9%A4%A8%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E4%BA%80%E6%B2%A22-7-2&query_place_id=ChIJgRjTtzOJGGARqoKBtB8BAno), a silver building designed by Kazuyo Sejima, opened in 2016 a few streets east, close to where Katsushika Hokusai was born in 1760. He spent most of his life in Sumida, and the museum shows his prints and paintings in rotating exhibitions, so what is on display changes through the year. It is closed on Mondays and needs about an hour.

[Kyu-Yasuda Garden](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E6%97%A7%E5%AE%89%E7%94%B0%E5%BA%AD%E5%9C%92%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-12-1), a few minutes north of the station, is a strolling garden laid out by a feudal lord around the end of the 17th century. Its pond once rose and fell with the tides of the Sumida; today a pump recreates the effect. It is lit after dark until closing and makes a quiet break between museums. The [Japanese Sword Museum](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E5%88%80%E5%89%A3%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A4%A8%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-12-9) stands next to it and is also closed on Mondays.

- From late November to late December, Kyu-Yasuda Garden has held an evening light event in recent years, with longer opening hours.

- → [Edo-Tokyo Museum: old Edo and modern Tokyo in Ryogoku](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/edo-tokyo-museum.md)
- → [Museums and big exhibitions in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/museums.md)
- → [What to do in Tokyo when it rains](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/rainy-day.md)
- → [Art & Exhibitions events in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/art.md)
- → [Cultural & Ethnic Festivals events in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/culture.md)

## Chanko, the river and the year in Ryogoku

Chanko nabe is the hot pot wrestlers eat to build their size: a big pot of broth with chicken or fish, vegetables and tofu, finished with rice or noodles in the leftover soup. Ryogoku is known for its many chanko restaurants, a good number of them opened by retired wrestlers, and during tournaments the Kokugikan basement serves a bowl of it to ticket holders. Chanko is at its best in the cold months, which suits the January tournament.

The river is the other half of Ryogoku's story. The [Sumida River Fireworks](https://www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com/) began with the Ryogoku kawabiraki, the river-opening festival of 1733, when fireworks were launched near Ryogoku Bridge in memory of the victims of famine and epidemic. They were held near the bridge until 1961, and since the revival in 1978 they have been launched from two sites further upstream, usually on the last Saturday of July. Ryogoku is one of the stations for the southern viewing area, and it gets very crowded on the night.

Through the year the rhythm is simple: tournaments in January, May and September, the fireworks in late July, and new exhibitions at the Edo-Tokyo and Hokusai museums every few months.

- On tournament days restaurants near the hall can fill up at lunch and right after the last bout. Eat a little earlier or later.
- On fireworks night, plan your way home before you arrive. Stations near the river often limit entry after the show.

- → [Fireworks festivals in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/fireworks.md)
- → [What to eat in Tokyo and how to order it](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/what-to-eat.md)
- → [Summer festivals in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/summer-festivals.md)
- → [Food & Drink events in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/food-drink.md)
- → [Fireworks (Hanabi) events in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/fireworks.md)

## Getting there and nearby

[JR Ryogoku Station](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=JR%20%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD%E9%A7%85%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-3-20&query_place_id=ChIJcT75sEqJGGARo4DjAx2dCOM) is on the yellow Chuo-Sobu local line, which runs straight through from Shinjuku and Akihabara. The Kokugikan is right outside the West Exit, and the Edo-Tokyo Museum is about three minutes away. [Ryogoku Station](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E9%83%BD%E5%96%B6%E5%A4%A7%E6%B1%9F%E6%88%B8%E7%B7%9A%20%E4%B8%A1%E5%9B%BD%E9%A7%85%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%A2%A8%E7%94%B0%E5%8C%BA%E6%A8%AA%E7%B6%B21-4-29) on the Toei Oedo Line is a separate station a few minutes east; its exits A3 and A4 come up in front of the Edo-Tokyo Museum, and the Hokusai Museum is about five minutes from exit A3 (or about nine minutes from the JR East Exit).

Ryogoku pairs well with its neighbours. Akihabara is two stops west on the JR line, Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree are a short trip north, and two stops south on the Oedo Line you reach Kiyosumi-shirakawa, with [Kiyosumi Garden](https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=%E6%B8%85%E6%BE%84%E5%BA%AD%E5%9C%92%20%E6%9D%B1%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E6%B1%9F%E6%9D%B1%E5%8C%BA%E6%B8%85%E6%BE%843-3-9) and the quiet coffee streets of Fukagawa. A full day could be a museum in the morning, chanko for lunch, the garden in the afternoon and a walk along the river at dusk.

- → [Asakusa: temple fairs, festivals and old Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/asakusa.md)
- → [Akihabara: anime, games and events](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/akihabara.md)
- → [Tokyo Skytree: the two decks, Solamachi and the view](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/tokyo-skytree.md)
- → [Tokyo neighbourhoods for events: where to go for what](https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/neighbourhoods.md)
- → [Events in Sumida](https://eventstokyo.com/en/sumida.md)
- → [Events in Koto](https://eventstokyo.com/en/koto.md)
- → [Events in Taito](https://eventstokyo.com/en/taito.md)

## All events, soonest first

- **[Grand Sumo New Year Tournament (Hatsu Basho)](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/grand-sumo-new-year-tournament-hatsu-basho-7702)** — Sun, Jan 10, 2027 – Sun, Jan 24, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥3,500〜
- **[Grand Sumo Summer Tournament (Natsu Basho)](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/grand-sumo-summer-tournament-natsu-basho-7703)** — Sun, May 9, 2027 – Sun, May 23, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥3,500〜
- **[U-NEXT BOXING.7 Triple World Title Match](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/u-next-boxing7)** — Sun, Nov 29, 2026 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[75th All-Japan Sumo Championship](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/75th-all-japan-sumo-championship)** — Sun, Dec 6, 2026 10:30 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Endo Retirement and Hokujin Name Succession Grand Sumo Event](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/endo-retirement-and-hokujin-name-succession-grand-sumo-event)** — Sat, Jan 30, 2027 11:30 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥4,000–¥60,000
- **[40th Annual 5,000-Person Beethoven’s Ninth Concert at Ryogoku Sumo Hall](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/40th-annual-5000-person-beethovens-ninth-concert-at-ryogoku)** — Sun, Feb 28, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Pro Wrestling NOAH Getworks Presents WRESTLE ODYSSEY II](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/getworks-presents-wrestle-odyssey)** — Sun, Oct 25, 2026 15:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥5,000–¥25,000
- **[DDT Ultimate Party 2026](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/ddt-ultimate-party-2026-7683)** — Tue, Nov 3, 2026 14:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥5,000〜
- **[Haruomi Hosono: The Yours Sincerely Tour in Tokyo](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/haruomi-hosono-the-yours-sincerely-tour-in-tokyo)** — Mon, Dec 7, 2026 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Pro Wrestling NOAH: Wrestle Odyssey II at Ryogoku](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/wrestle-odyssey-ii)** — Sun, Oct 25, 2026 15:00 (JST) · Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥5,000〜
- **[104th All-Japan Student Sumo Championship](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/104th-all-japan-student-sumo-championship)** — Sat, Oct 31, 2026 10:00 – Sun, Nov 1, 2026 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Best Body Japan National Championships 2026](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/best-body-japan-national-championships-2026-7736)** — Sun, Nov 22, 2026 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Masafumi Gotoh](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/masafumi-gotoh)** — Wed, Dec 2, 2026 18:30 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥5,000〜
- **[Sky Amusement Park: THE SUPER FRUIT WORLD 2026 at Ryogoku Sumo Hall](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/the-super-fruit-world-2026-in)** — Sat, Dec 12, 2026 17:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥7,800–¥14,500
- **[OWV Live Tour 2026 - SQUAD -](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/owv-live-tour-2026-squad)** — Sun, Dec 13, 2026 17:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥12,000
- **[All Japan Robot Sumo Tournament 2026 – Finals](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/all-japan-robot-sumo-tournament-2026-finals)** — Sat, Dec 19, 2026 – Sun, Dec 20, 2026 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Stardom Dream Queendom 2026](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/stardom-dream-queendom-2026)** — Tue, Dec 29, 2026 17:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥4,000–¥150,000
- **[Masashi Sada Countdown Concert at Ryogoku Sumo Hall](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/masashi-sada-countdown-concert-at-ryogoku-sumo-hall)** — Thu, Dec 31, 2026 20:00 – Fri, Jan 1, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · ¥11,000–¥55,000
- **[Chiyomaru Retirement Hair-Cutting Ceremony](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/chiyomaru-retirement-hair-cutting-ceremony)** — Sun, Jan 31, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[MINHO CONCERT <MEAN : of feral> in TOKYO](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/minho-concert-mean-of-feral-in-tokyo)** — Sat, Feb 20, 2027 – Sun, Feb 21, 2027 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Tokyo Joshi Pro Wrestling Fall Tour 2026: Ray of Hope in Shinkiba](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/tjpw-fall-tour-2026ray-of-hopein-shinkiba)** — Sun, Nov 1, 2026 12:30 (JST) · Ryogoku KFC Hall, Tokyo · price on the official site
- **[39th National Technical College Robot Contest 2026](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/39th-national-technical-college-robot-contest-2026)** — Sun, Nov 15, 2026 12:30 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · Free entry
- **[Exhibition: The World of Painted Sliding Doors and Folding Screens](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/exhibition-the-world-of-painted-sliding-doors-and)** — Wed, Dec 2, 2026 – Sun, Dec 6, 2026 (JST) · Ekoin Temple (Sumida) · price on the official site
- **[Serves You Right!! Vol.12 – “Serves You Right!!” Release Tour Final](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/vol12-vol12)** — Fri, Dec 4, 2026 18:30 (JST) · Ryogoku SUNRIZE · price on the official site
- **[26th Higashin Business Fair 2026](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/26th-higashin-business-fair-2026)** — Fri, Nov 20, 2026 10:00 (JST) · Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumida) · Free entry
- **[[Chuo City] Discussion Group on Work, Society, and Business #2](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/chuo-city-discussion-group-on-work-society-and)** — Tue, Nov 3, 2026 10:00 (JST) · Chuo Ward Industrial Hall (Chuo) · Free entry
- **[Hakuzan's Study Session](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/hakuzans-study-session)** — Wed, Nov 4, 2026 12:30 (JST) · Oedo Ryogoku-tei · price on the official site
- **[Let’s Chat! 13th Philosophy Café for Beginners (Casual Conversation and Light Philosophy Study Session)](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/lets-chat-13th-philosophy-cafe-for-beginners-casual)** — Sat, Nov 21, 2026 15:30 (JST) · Chuo Ward Industrial Hall (Chuo) · Free entry
- **[NHK Taiga Drama Special Exhibition Brothers in Arms](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/nhk-taiga-drama-special-exhibition-brothers-in-arms)** — Tue, Sep 15, 2026 09:30 – Sun, Nov 8, 2026 (JST) · Edo-Tokyo Museum · ¥1,900〜¥2,100
- **[Stories Surrounding Turkish Traditional Needlework: Oya Lace](https://eventstokyo.com/en/events/stories-surrounding-turkish-traditional-needlework-oya-lace)** — Sat, Oct 24, 2026 – Fri, Nov 6, 2026 (JST) · TOHO BEADS STYLE Gallery t (Taito) · price on the official site

## Questions people ask

**What is there to do in Ryogoku besides sumo?**
The Edo-Tokyo Museum, the Sumida Hokusai Museum, Kyu-Yasuda Garden and the Japanese Sword Museum are all within a short walk, and Ryogoku is the classic place to eat chanko nabe.

**When are the sumo tournaments at Ryogoku Kokugikan?**
Three times a year, in January, May and September, each for 15 days. Tickets go on sale about five weeks before each tournament on the [official Ticket Oosumo site](https://sumo.pia.jp/en/).

**Can I watch sumo morning practice in Ryogoku?**
Sometimes. Each stable sets its own rules, many no longer accept walk-in visitors, and the most reliable way is a small-group tour booked through an operator. Silence is expected throughout.

**Is the Edo-Tokyo Museum open again?**
Yes. It reopened on March 31, 2026, after renovation. It is closed on Mondays, so check the official calendar before you go.

**Where can I eat chanko nabe in Ryogoku?**
There are many chanko restaurants around the station, several run by former wrestlers, and one inside Edo NOREN by the JR West Exit. During tournaments the Kokugikan basement also serves it to ticket holders.

**How do I get to Ryogoku?**
Take the JR Chuo-Sobu local line to Ryogoku, which runs directly from Shinjuku and Akihabara, or the Toei Oedo Line to its own Ryogoku Station a few minutes away.

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Tokyo Events: https://eventstokyo.com/en/guides/ryogoku